Dairy Ads May Dupe Dieters
By Amy Joy Lanou, Ph.D
This op-ed was published on May 24, 2004, in the
Detroit Free Press.
It builds bone. It makes muscle. It melts away surplus pounds faster
than ice cream disappears from hot asphalt. Who knows? Maybe it
can even give you back that new car smell.
The miracle product in question? It’s milk, of course—the
white stuff that’s the right stuff. Or so argues the dairy
industry, which recently launched yet another high-dollar advertising
campaign to convince Americans they don’t consume enough dairy
products.
Forget the Olsen twins sporting milk mustaches or the zaniness
of the “Got Milk?” commercials. The new ads home in
on one of America’s most serious concerns: the obesity epidemic.
One dairy industry-funded TV commercial shows a fat glass of milk
magically slimming to hourglass proportions. Other ads are more
coy: “Drink milk. Lose weight?” asks one from the National
Dairy Council.
Perhaps not coincidentally, this propaganda blitz comes as skyrocketing
milk prices are making some consumers skeptical of trips to the
dairy case. The dairy industry knows Americans will pay big bucks
to stave off obesity, so the new ads promote the idea that milk
helps people lose weight.
But does it? As a nutritionist, I’m deeply skeptical. Indeed,
I think that high-fat, high-calorie dairy products actually play
a key role in America’s obesity epidemic.
Certainly the dairy industry’s weight-loss claims rest on
pretty shaky scientific evidence. A good case in point is the latest
announcement from one of the dairy industry’s star researchers,
Michael Zemel of the University of Tennessee.
In a widely reported study funded by the National Dairy Council,
Zemel claims to have found that three to four servings per day of
dairy products increased the rate of weight loss in obese people
on a calorie-restricted diet. Sounds like good news, right?
But a careful review of Zemel’s study, published in the April
issue of Obesity Research, raises serious questions about
both the research itself and the way it has been used as a marketing
tool by the dairy industry.
First, the weight lost by dieters in Zemel’s high-dairy group
was roughly a pound a week—about typical for anyone who, as
these dieters did, reduces food intake by 500 calories a day.
Moreover, the group observed by Zemel and his colleagues was so
small that only five male subjects completed the study. The high-dairy
group totaled just 11 people. Jumping to broad conclusions based
on such a small sample seems premature—to say the least.
A broader review of the scientific literature tells a very different
story. Many other studies have found that adding dairy to your diet
without restricting calories either has no effect or actually increases
body weight. That’s not surprising. After all, cheese derives
about 70 percent of its calories from fat. Even skim milk is 55
percent sugar, as a percentage of calories.
In truth, Americans already consume far too much dairy. As a result,
milk is the single largest source of saturated fat—a leading
contributor to coronary disease—in children's diets, according
to the National Institute of Child Health and Development.
It’s only natural that milk
producers see weight-loss claims as a strong selling point—a
“golden opportunity,” as the International Dairy Foods
Association described the situation in a recent marketing memo.
But for American consumers, there’s a serious danger here.
Will a slick advertising campaign lead people to believe they can
slim down by consuming more high-fat, high-calorie cheese or milk?
Our obesity problem has already reached epidemic proportions. The
last thing we need is misleading weight-loss information from an
industry giant.
Amy Joy Lanou,
Ph.D., is nutrition director of the Physicians Committee for Responsible
Medicine and author of Healthy Eating for Life for Children.
Dr. Lanou has also written about the USDA
check-off program.
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